Review from

Tucked away in what sometimes seems like its own world, ever endearing La Potinière quietly gets on with pleasing its customers without making too much of a song and dance of anything.

Mary Runciman and Keith Marley deliver seriously classy cooking, centred on impeccable Scottish produce and home-grown herbs, with influences garnered from near and far (Thai coconut soup might appear as an intermediate course, for example).

The menu is short and choice is limited – no bad thing given that there is always plenty happening on the plate: seared scallops with ham hock terrine and cauliflower might precede steamed halibut with crushed new potatoes, smoked salmon, asparagus, lovage and tomberry (tomato) sauce or poached and seared Gressingham duck breast with confit leg, creamed foie gras and duck jus.

For dessert, consider warm, soft-centred chocolate with poached cherries.